Unless you’ve been living under a rock this last 5 years you’ll know that brows are big business. Your brow game could make or break your day. It’s official, brows are now life! 💁🏼
Throughout history eyebrows have played a pivotal role in makeup, the shape changing with fashion. It’s even possible to identify the era a makeup look was created simply by looking at the brow shape alone, whether they were styled narrow, thick, short, rounded, angular or plucked into oblivion …but never before have brows taken such central stage on the makeup scene.
When I first started makeup artistry 10 years ago most brows were plucked within an inch of their lives, people rarely filled them in. (I used to wear the darkest smokey eyes & leave my sparse brows untouched 🙈 eek!) In fact it was common practise to apply a client’s brow makeup last if they were facing a mirror because they would panic at seeing a more defined brow. It usually took some persuasion to get a bride to agree to keeping them filled in for their big day (you can thank me now ladies 😉) – and it wasn’t anything by today’s standards 😅
HD Brows are widely credited with changing the brow platform altogether, introducing a more sleek & sexy brow – In 2011 I was one of the first on board this trend, training at the HD headquarters in Yorkshire. This seven step treatment adds length to the classic brow shape, with a clean, precise finish making brows a focal point on the face.
Brows have evolved since then, with what’s known as the “instabrow”, a more extreme version. Personally I’m not a fan of overly large, dark brows as I feel they make a face appear more masculine, plus this style would never be seen on an A-list star at a red carpet event! …Maybe it’s just me but I can’t imagine Angelina Jolie or Victoria Beckham rocking a pair of Instagram brows 🤔
But not to delay, lets get to the part you all want – a step-by-step guide to creating those perfect brows…
How To Brows…
Before we start creating amazing brows there are a few things to consider.
They are sisters, not twins
You’ll probably have noticed by now you have a good brow and slightly more questionable one. Use the better brow as a guide point for the dodgy brow and try to mimic it 👍🏻 It’s important to note that what you do to one brow, you do immediately on the other side – this help keep symmetry between them.
Product & Colour
As a general rule of the thumb, what is considered the most flattering, your brows should have the same depth of colour as your hair (or roots if they are visibly showing) or half a shade darker. Of course there are exceptions to this, blondes should stick to cool taupes and if you have red tones in your hair you use a warm brown shade. Brows that are too light age the face.
Pencils, powders, gels and creams are all popular mediums for brow makeup. Personally I don’t feel pencils last due to the waxy formula and powders don’t give that defined look I like, although it can be a good alternative for an older client. Personally I use the Doll Face Forever Brow Set in the colour B35 and finish with HD Bows ColourFix gel.
I created Doll Face Forever Brows last year, my very first product. It was developed through a need to get a professional quality but affordable product on the market to meet the need for precise, sculpted brows that were incredibly long lasting. Our pomade has a non waxy, non greasy formula that is both waterproof & smudge proof. (Our very first batch sold out in one weekend to rave reviews & kick started the rest of the line.)
Whatever medium you choose the application method is very similar, so read on!
Step 1 – Groom
Using a clean spooly (clean mascara wand) brush through both brows, brushing them into shape.
I’m using the Doll Face Dual Brush Groomer
Step 2 – Underline
Starting with a good angled brush and a using a light touch, underline both brows. I like to start about 1cm in from the start of the brow. The arch should fall somewhere between the edge of of the iris and corner of the eye.
Don’t be shy with product to allow the brush to glide across the skin.
Again I’m using the Doll Face Dual Brush Groomer as it was designed with just the right amount of stiffness & flexibility in the bristled so they don’t splay and creates a beautiful sleek line.
Step 3 – Line The Upper Brow
What goes below goes on top, create a line that mirrors the bottom line. Again, starting 1cm in from your brow’s starting point, sculpt your brow – running it into the outer brow at fine tapered point.
Step 4 – Create Individual Hair Strokes
You can either use this technique for just that first 1cm of the brow as I do (or if you prefer you can continue it through the brows for a more natural look).
In a vertical motion create individual hair strokes, this technique mimics how the brow hairs naturally lie at the start of the brow. As the brow extends outwards the hairs naturally start to lie horizontally and after the arch they turn downwards. If you intend to fill in the brow with this technique you will need to replicate the hairs in a similar fashion.
Step 5 – Shade The Brow
For brows with more definition, like mine, use the remains of brow pomade that’s left on the brush and start to fill in the outer brow, moving inwards. This results in the brow looking slightly blended on the inside, which is perfect as no one wants a harsh ‘block’ on the inner brow.
I like to finish off with a coloured brow gel, I comb it through the brow to make the natural hair look more visible, resulting in a more natural looking brow while still looking defined. I go back over this with the clean spooly end of the Doll Face brush to ensure the product isn’t clumpy.
I’m using the HD Brows Colour Fix in Foxy to do this.
Step 7 – Conceal
This step is totally optional, but can be handy to implement if you have made any mistakes or you want a more intensely highlighted brow bone.
Using a flat tip liner brush I pick a tiny bit of concealer and apply it, using a tapping motion, to the perimeter of the brow. It’s so important to stress that you can’t use a dragging motion or it will cause any mistakes to smear, resulting in a dirty finish.
I use the Doll Face Full Concealing cream as it is fluid for a flawless application and is intensely pigmented – any discolouration (i.e. mishaps with the brow product) will completely disappear at a slight touch.
I recommend setting this concealer with either a highlighter (under the brow only) or setting powder (on top or all over)
And that’s your brow finished! For the record I always do my foundation first, then brows and continue on with the rest of the makeup. I prefer to do it in this order but I know other makeup artist will do brows first and that’s completely fine. There is no right or wrong way to do this, it’s personal preference.
I hope you all have enjoyed this post and found it helpful, if you do give me a like & comment. Do be sure send me any pics of brows you’ve created using this guide as I’d love to see them!